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The 1991-1997 Suzuki Cappuccino. Suzuki's diminutive, turbo-charged, hard top convertible.

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advice

Postby wizniggy » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:08 am

ive been looking at getting a capp , for a summer car , as i enjoyed th eprevious mx5s ive owned and would like to own a 2nd car thats little different..

But im reading horror stories about rust, and most cars avail say they need welding, can anyone let me know , are these wee cars rust buckets or ??


chat soon
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Postby IanL » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:11 am

Unfortunately they were not protected to modern standards in the factory, so some are rusty disasters, and some are not.

Those which are not are recently arrived from Japan (where they do not salt the roads), or have been protected from road salt either by not using them in Winter, or by application of Waxoyl, Dinitrol or similar to the underside and all cavities.

The only way to be safe is a thorough inspection. The most common failure points are where the rear suspension trailing rods attach to the body, and the rear wheel arches, but I have heard of floors and sills rotting as well.

Needless to say, if you do find a good one, apply Waxoyl, Dinitrol or similar immediately.

Don't be put off - a good one is worth the search, as they are a lot of fun. You don't sit in them - you wear them. :D
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Postby wizniggy » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:45 pm

hi ian,

ive had alook but them seem to vary in price 1500-7000 can you suggest any specs to lok for or models even a place within the uk.

i understand about the usual jdm / uk roads etc i thought there was a fault or somethign as ive read 20 adds for sale and they are mention they need welding, i thought to myself surely it cant just be unwaxed cars .
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Postby IanL » Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:21 pm

The officially imported cars are all one single model (EA11R), in two colours, silver or red.

2nd hand imports from Japan can be the same, or in a greater variety of colours, or they can be the subsequent model (Type 3, EA21R), which is very similar, but can be 3 speed automatic. JDM cars may also have electric power steering, or LSD, Driver's airbag and ABS. If you want more details:

http://www.suzuki-cappuccino.com/a_information/a_cappuccino/info_cappo_production.php

That will help you identify a JDM car from the VIN, and, if it is JDM, what goodies it has.

There is no advantage in the Type 3, unless you particularly want auto., but they are few and far between. EA11R parts are all stocked or can be supplied by Suzuki GB, but they do not handle parts (such as the engine) which are different in Type 3. I would say they are best avoided, for that reason - you can tell if it's Type 3 because the Model Code (on the data plate under the bonnet) ends in a 3, and the VIN begins with EA21.

Another factor is that there is an English EA11R Service Manual (available online on the SCORE site to members), but the only documentation for the EA21R is in Japanese. Wakarimasuka?

Afaik the only way to find them is advertisements - SCORE website, EBay, etc.
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Postby wizniggy » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:56 pm

thanks ian ill post on how i get on.

ps if you see any good ones for sale please pm
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Postby ClubCappo » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:31 pm

IanL wrote:There is no advantage in the Type 3, unless you particularly want auto.


Are you not a fan of the higher torque, chain driven K6A Ian? By all accounts it's a very nice engine. Even better in K6A-B guise that was fitted to some snowmobiles.
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Postby IanL » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:36 pm

ClubCappo wrote:
IanL wrote:There is no advantage in the Type 3, unless you particularly want auto.


Are you not a fan of the higher torque, chain driven K6A Ian? By all accounts it's a very nice engine. Even better in K6A-B guise that was fitted to some snowmobiles.


The higher torque is not much, and the F6A has plenty for me :D As for the chain, I find the belt is highly satisfactory, and very easy to change. If a chain drive ever has excessive wear on the guides (and some do, at least on the GV), they are a devil to replace.

I think availablility of parts, and a Service Manual I can read, are more persuasive.
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Postby ClubCappo » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:53 pm

Yep like most things there are pros and cons. Not being able to read Japanese is certainly a drawback :lol:

Parts availability on the K6A shouldn't be too bad though as it is still being manufactured and Dany is able to get anything that might be needed. There are some K6A engine manuals available in English too. I think the K6A would certainly be the one to go for if you were interested in easy power gains. Like you I'm happy with the F6A though. Even more so once I get my newly acquired N1 fitted :D
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